The name Saruhashi literally translates as ‘Monkey Bridge’ from Japanese. However the reason why the structure was named after the primate is unclear.
One of the legend says that at some point of time monkey used their bodies as a bridge across the ravine and a gardener named Shirako constructed the bridge after watching this extraordinary event.
Another legend says that a structure that existed in the olden days was so fragile that only a monkey could cross it, hence the name for the bridge.
However there is something extraordinary about the bridge as it is not built on pillars, as most bridges are, rather it is supported by a series of ‘cantilever beams’ set in the opposing cliff faces. This style of construction is called the ‘Hanebashi’ style which was common during the 18th century when the current structure was built. The bridge has featured in a few paintings by famous artists in the 18th and the 19th centuries.
The bridge shares the distinction of being listed amongst the three strange bridges of Japan, along with the Kintai bridge in Iwakuni and the Kiso no Kakehashi in Nagano.
I have been to the Kintai bridge in Iwakuni, the Nagano one did not come to my attention till now, that’s something to explore in the future trips.
We discovered the bridge for the autumn foliage which surrounds the banks of the Katsura river, over which the bridge stands. It is around 2 hours drive from Tokyo, 113 kms from our location and a great candidate for a drive from Tokyo.
The holiday morning traffic curse struck us on the Labor Thanksgiving holiday and the traffic built up steadily after we crossed Shinjuku. It built up and dissipated a few times till we reached Hachioji , a short stop at the Fujino Service area, we reached the Saruhashi parking area around 09:30, half an hour later than expected.
Parking is free but limited and arriving at a relatively early hour ensured we found a place to park, guided to the spot a the gruff but efficient attendant for the parking area.
Tourists were few at that hour and there was time to appreciate the structure and the maple trees around it shining in various shades of red, orange, yellow and brown.
The bridge stands over the Katsura river and steps along the bridge lead to the banks of the river.
There are portions without steps and one needs to tread nimbly over rocks to reach the river. Boats are available for tourists to take a 30 minute sail along the river, there are a few good spots to take pictures of the gorge. The water is relatively shallow and flows in a gentle stream and rubber dinghies are used by the boatsmen to take the tourists around.
We could see one boat , a single passenger and two crew on sail, the boats would stop at points on the banks where the tourists could get down to take pictures.
The autumn foliage was beautiful but it wasn’t in full bloom on the late November day. Another week would have added more colour to the landscape, important for people like me, who came here to take pictures.
There is a park along the river bank, which was deserted at mid-day, a lone gardener raking leaves was our only companion. The coloured leaves and the shrubs in shades of yellow added beauty to the surroundings.
We made our way back to the bridge and found it overrun by tourists. A large Thai tourist group was present and the younger ladies of the group were busy striking poses for social media friendly pictures.
A cafe served lunch though we settled for coffee. You need to buy tickets at the vending machine and ask the staff to point out to one of the banquet styled tables, red tablecloth and plush classical style chairs.
The tourist group was still at the selfies when we emerged from the cafe 30 minutes later. We waited patiently for our turn to capture the autumn colours across the bridge.
On the drive back we stopped over at the Dangozaka Service Area, the flame grilled pizza roll being the prime attraction.
The lunch time traffic was yet to build up and we found shaded seating close to the pizza joint, the air war cool, the surrounding mountains starting to light up, a car honking angrily at another one heading the wrong way at the exit the only imperfection on this perfect canvas of day!
